So when I think of Russia one of the first things that comes to mind (after the Cold War, Communism, and vodka) is the ballet. In Russia the original purpose of ballet was to entertain the Royal Court. The first ballet company was the Imperial School of Ballet in St. Petersburg in the 1740s. (per Wikipedia) Mikhail Baryshnikov was like a pop star when I was growing up. Probably because he defected to Canada in 1974 and then worked for the NY City Ballet. He made his debut at the Mariinsky Theater in St. Petersburg (then Leningrad) so of course I absolutely had to go to a ballet at the Mariisky Theater myself. The Mariinsky Theater opened in 1860 and became the preeminent music theatre of late 19th century Russia, where many of the stage masterpieces of Tchaikovsky, Mussorgsky, and Rimsky-Korsakov received their premieres. In addition to the ballet, the opera and orchestra also perform here.
It was impossible to book tickets on line in advance- everything was sold out! Of course I knew our trusty concierge at the Grand Hotel Europe would not fail us. Chris and I chose to see Spartacus which had originally premeired in Leningrad in 1956. This was the premiere of the first full-scale revival. Spartacus was the notable slave leader who led an uprising against the Roman Republic in the Third Sevile War- also known as the War of Spartacus. Our concierge warned us that the only seats available were in Row 26- how bad can that be? We are so used to giant theaters with nosebleed seats high in the balconies. We decided it was going to be worth the $150 per ticket.
Boy were we disappointed. As I mentioned yesterday, this was the only day of our trip that it rained. Well, just as we were heading out all dressed up for the 7:00 pm ballet there was a DOWNPOUR! Water coming into the hotel lobby. They had the wetvac out and it was just a mess. And not easy to get a taxi. Clearly we should have booked one in advance. One of the doormen was very helpful in flagging one for us and we were on our way with little time to spare. So, when we came to a major traffic block at a four corner intersection I started checking my watch. Would they seat us late Chris wanted to know. I had no idea. WOuld we have to wait for the end of the first act? Our taxi driver even got out of the car and tried to direct traffic at the intersection- not all of the drivers appreciated being told how and when to drive. Still raining we finally got through and pulled up to the theater just in time. Oh my gosh was it warm in the theater. I regretted wearing the long sleeve red dress even if it was a light wool. Clearly they have not installed airconditioning. We were directed to our seats and after climbing just over a few people sat down in what would be the most uncomfortable chair I have ever sat it. I may as well have sat down in an elementary school chair for three hours. Nonetheless, I was not giving up hope. The theater itself is amazing. Like all of the palaces there is much gilded gold and rich heavy ornate detail. With all the worry about arriving late they actually started late. I am not sure if they realized people were delayed because of the weather and traffic or if they would have started late anyway. The performance itself was really just okay. My expectations were set high, no doubt. The costumes seemed like they pulled them out of the 1950s closet and the scenery didn't really do anything to grab my attention. Doesn't the curtain look like it is from a circus tent? The dancing was excellent but I don't think any better than I have seen performed by the Boston Ballet. And it was longggg. Three acts is fine but not with 20 and 25 minute intermissions. And remember it was warm and the seats uncomfortable. We were sitting next to two Americans who left after the second act they were so disappointed. We stuck it out and were glad we went and can say, "I've been to a Russian ballet at the Mariinsky Theater." I enjoyed my gin and tonic in the Lobby Bar back at the hotel afterwards and taking pictures of each other in the mirrors was more fun.
The dates are finally falling! Or rather it is now fresh dates season. Jamal was given a crate of fresh dates from Mecca on Tuesday from an incoming student who was on campus. So for breakfast this morning I made a Date Walnut Loaf which is delicious! Recipe courtesy of the Williams-Sonoma website. If you can get fresh dates I highly recommend it! Of course I had to substitute fresh orange juice for the Drambuie ;-) And tonight I am going to stuff the dates with goat cheese as an appetizer...
Keep your fingers crossed that I'll be in the US next week at this time!
Date Walnut Loaf (Williams-Sonoma)
Since ancient times, dates have been a staple of the Middle Eastern pantry. At least three dozen distinct varieties of date palm are cultivated. Because of their naturally tacky consistency and high sugar content, many people believe dates are a dried fruit. Although you can purchase dried dates, nearly all dates are sold in their fresh, soft or semidry state. Among the most popular types found in American and European markets are the moderately sweet Deglet Noor, a good choice for this recipe, and the rich, meaty Medjool. Buy dates pitted to eliminate a preparation step.
Ingredients:
1 cup pitted dates, roughly chopped
3 Tbs. brandy or Grand Marnier
1 cup walnuts, lightly toasted and coarsely
chopped
1 1⁄2 tsp. baking soda
1⁄4 tsp. salt
3 Tbs. unsalted butter, melted and cooled
to room temperature
3⁄4 cup warm water
3⁄4 cup sugar
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 1⁄2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
Directions:
Preheat an oven to 325°F. Generously butter an 8 1⁄2-by-4 1⁄2-inch loaf pan.
In a small bowl, soak the dates in 1 Tbs. of the brandy for about 10 minutes.
In a large bowl, using a large rubber spatula, stir together the dates, walnuts, baking soda, salt, melted butter and water until combined. Mix in the sugar and eggs, then the flour. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake until the cake is puffed and browned, and a skewer inserted into the center comes out clean, 50 to 60 minutes. Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let the cake cool completely.
Run a table knife around the edge of the pan and turn the cake out onto a serving plate. Turn it right side up. Spoon the remaining 2 Tbs. brandy, a little at a time, over the cake so that the cake absorbs all of it. Serves 8 to 10.
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